The first Bengalese was bred in the Far East, possibly in Japan. Their captivity dates back so long ago that it is said Bengalese have never lived in the wild; there true ancestry has always been controversial. However, many now believe the Asian Striated and Sharp tail Manikins are direct ancestors. These wild, seldom-seen Manikins are essentially identical to the Chocolate Self Bengalese Finch. Possibly a domestic form of the White-backed Munia, it was introduced from the Far East several centuries ago. First seen in Europe in 1960 very social, non-aggressive, peaceful, pleasant little bird around 10 to 12cm. Bengalese finches are good breeders and are ideal foster parents for many other rare finch breeds that are not steady enough to be called reliable parents. Bengalese can be housed with most other finch species, as they are non-aggressive. They are so easy to care for that they are an ideal species for a novice to start up with. The Bengalese is one of the most enjoyable and easiest finches to keep and breed. Every bird fancier who keeps them will come to realise the true value of this lovely little bird.

The Bengalese finch diet consists of a seed mixture for small birds. Millet is the principal seed in any finch formula.  White millet, Red millet, Panicum millet, Plain canary seed, Niger, Linseed, Rape seed, Naked oats, and a good form of conditioning seed, including millet sprays, green stuff, and fruit. Many breeders like to mix their own, or if you prefer an already pre-mixed bag of Foreign Finch mixed seed can be obtained from different outlets either by the kilo or 15 to 20kg bags. Also Bengalese love millet sprays were they could hang on and feed.

Soft food may be given all year round by many breeders but I feed it only once a week in winter but in the breeding season as a rearing egg food is used every day. I also put in Breedmax vitamins to my egg food mix. Information from www.probird.co.uk I also use shredded carrot or frozen peas done in the blender to a mush, maybe once or twice a week. Live foods in mealworms are another source of nutritious food. Also a good soaked seed are also acceptable in bringing your birds into peak condition before the breeding season starts. Sprouted seeds are given to birds by most finch owners to satisfy the need for greens. In an aviary or breeding cages Bengalese finches can thrive in a wide range of temperatures and under almost any conditions as long has they have fresh food, clean water and a large enough cage to facilitate exercise and social interaction.

In addition to this, Bengalese finches like many greens such as dandelion leaves, chickweed, spinach, vegetables and fruits. Grated carrots and cucumbers are examples of vegetables, and owners are encouraged to try apples and bananas to see what appeals to their individual needs. Make sure you get any greens from a non-polluted area. Take the vegetable material out of the aviary after a few hours so that it doesn't begin to rot and smell. The more fresh food that you feed them the better; that way they get a good variety of foodstuff together with important vitamins and minerals. Bengalese finches should always have access to fresh water.

In general, birds should always have access to some form of calcium. Calcium is an essential mineral supplement to Bengalese finch's diets, and is important both to the bird's bone development, and the female's calcium-intensive needs in egg laying. Generally, a cuttlefish bone obtained at many pet stores is the easiest method for assuring that calcium is available. A calcium additive can be purchased and added to the food or water if you prefer.

All birds need grit. They use this to grind their food, as they don't have teeth. Buy a commercial grit mixture and preferably one that also has minerals added, also add oyster shell grit and charcoal, a ground up mineral blocks mixed into the grit will also benefit your birds. A vitamin additive can be purchased and added to the food or water if you prefer.

I generally worm my birds twice a year usually six weeks before the breeding season starts, and again later on in the year after breeding as finished. I do not worm chicks until they have reached well into the adult stage. I use Harkers Harka-verm Liquid wormer for pigeons in the drinking water. www.harkersltd.com 

This is very important in both preventing and controlling possible outbreaks of illness. Many diseases are spread through faeces (along with other body excretions and liquids) and contaminated food and water. If the cage, dishes and food are kept clean then chances of spreading disease are minimised. A good practice would be to scrub water dishes every day (by giving your birds fresh water daily), to scrub the perches when needed you may even want to soak them in a solution of Vanodine v18 disinfectant or in a weak bleach solution and rinse well before re-entering them in the aviary. Keep the cages and nests clean, again using the same method. If your birds have just successfully raised a clutch to weaning, clean out their nest thoroughly before letting them start to build another one.

Clean air is also very important, keeping air circulating in the aviary without creating cold draughts.

In order to keep food fresh, only purchase fresh seed and keep it stored in an airtight container when not in use. Also, remove soft foods (such as egg, vegetables, fruit or cake) daily. Along with discouraging wild birds from depositing their potentially disease-ridden droppings in your aviary, you must also discourage rodents such as rats and mice from visiting. Do not keep birds in overcrowded cages.

Certain disinfectants should only be used when there is an outbreak of disease as hot water and a good detergent will normally do the job of cleaning a cage when disease is not present. If you are going to disinfect your cages or aviaries, keep in mind that disinfectants will render powerless if the area is not visually clean before applying the disinfectant. Remaining droppings, foodstuffs or any other organic material can inactivate a disinfectant on contact. If the disinfectant is not of the correct potency, or the disinfectant is not left standing over the area for the recommended period of time this should be at least 20 minutes or so. The best disinfectants to use around Bengalese finches or other small birds are proprietary bleaches, Vanodine v18 www.evansvaodine.co.uk or Avi-Safe www.birdcareco.com Do not let birds come into contact with any of the disinfectants until the area has been rinsed and dried thoroughly. Also be wary of using disinfectants in closed rooms, and especially around young birds as fumes can affect them. The best place to disinfect a cage is where there is a lot of air circulation and where there are no birds present.

Bullfinches

Feed a good finch mixture throughout the year, feed wild seeds when in season, i.e. chickweed, dandelion heads, berries, a good quality soft egg food will help if taken by the birds, live food will be taken and is very useful during the breeding season, mealworms, buffalo worms, wax moths, and small insects you might find.

Flights 6ft x 6ft x 3ft wide, plus a safety porch. The use of ½in x ½in square wire would be advisable, and fit each side of the frame work, this will stop any hawks, cats, etc from getting access to your birds. Only one pair of birds recommended per flight.

Nesting wicker baskets with small amounts of conifer are ideal for your nest sites; Fix two nest sites at the end of the breeding enclosure. If you are using a double breeding cage 24in x12in x16in is used fix the nest sites on the cage fronts facing inwards.

Redpoll Mules

Depending if you want to breed a small mule use a lesser Redpoll, or if larger bird is required use a mealy Redpoll. Place a canary hen and Redpoll in a double breeding cage or small flight, feed and breed as you would a canary.

Redpoll x Greenfinch

Can be breed in a small flight, feed and treat as any other hybrid, small wicker baskets and conifer screenings would be accepted at nesting time.

Goldfinch Mules

Breed in a double breeding cages or small flights. Feed and treat as any other mule, when the canary hen starts to lay her eggs remove the cock bird, and re-introduce him when the chicks have hatched, he should then help to feed the chicks.

Song Thrush

House in flights 6ft x 6ft x 3ft minimum, larger if possible. Fit in several perches and conifer nest sites, wire chip pan baskets are ideal and can be brought from most supermarkets. Dry grasses and a litter tray of wet mud should be available for nest building. Feed chicken or turkey pellets good quality insectivorous food and lots of live food when chicks are in the nest. Cat food in the form of small foil trays is taken often; always give fresh drinking water to all of your birds.

Dunnocks / Hedge sparrows

House in planted up flights 6ft x 6ft x 3ft are ideal, larger the better. Fit several nest sites in forms conifer in clumps, about 3ft to 4ft off the ground. Fine grasses, moss, soft hair, and rootlets are good nesting materials. Feed mixed millet and insectivorous food, plus lots of live food during the breeding season. Young Dunnocks are reared better if the weather is dry and warm, wet weather and cold winds are not ideal for newly hatched chicks.

Ringing

Ring your chicks early, and obtain your rings from an approved supplier for British birds.